Ernest anchor acronym reddit. This is the place where you want the rope to hang from.
Ernest anchor acronym reddit rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. The direction of pull on an anchor is off-axis when it is not straight on – that is when it doesn’t distribute a load equally to the primary anchors in a system. Jun 28, 2015 · Is your anchor ERNEST? Equalized, Redundant, No-Extension, Strong, Timely. Anchor: Where you are actually attached to the rock, tree or bolt hanger Anchor Point: The place where all anchors converge to create a single point for suspension. May 18, 2025 · Keep ERNEST in Mind. This is the place where you want the rope to hang from. Timely – Appropriate for the time Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. This page explores key considerations when selecting anchors. Dec 10, 2012 · Fortunately, these are becoming part of the average climber's vocabulary. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Three acronyms, ERNEST, SERENE and SAFE, are used to identify important considerations when selecting an anchor. Efficient – Simple and quick to build. The quad uses up an awful lot of cord unnecessarily so simply tying another type of anchor will allow you to extend it easily. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. And yes we are scared of falling. I'll go over each component individually: Solid. If you are visiting r/tattoos for the first time, or visiting from r/all, please be aware of ALL of the rules in the sidebar and stickied threads before posting. 57 votes, 31 comments. Nov 11, 2017 · (The AMGA acronym is ERNEST—Equalized, Redundant, No Extension, Solid, and Timely. Reddit has a variety of commonly used abbreviations, acronyms, and slang terms that are used to communicate more efficiently within the platform. Overhand masterpoint or an equalette are both good solutions. So lets look at EARNEST and see what each letter stands for and also why it is important or not. This is the best possible system as it meets the requirements for a SRENE or ERNEST anchor and protects the anchor chains from damage. This setup includes 3 points of protection; one natural (left red nylon sling wrapped around a rock) and two cams. The acronym ERNEST is a quick reminder of what every anchor should be: Equalized – Shares load proportionally. Off-axis. You've heard of SRENE (or RENE) for Anchors, but why not SNEER? It's supposed to sound like "serene" as in blissful, like the feeling of being attached into a good anchor. It is a “pre-equalized” method, meaning of the load direction changes you’ll lose load distribution (just like a tied off bight). Dec 8, 2016 · When anchor acronyms go bad There are a lot of anchor acronyms out there in the rigging, rope and rescue world. All three points are equalized, brought to the center (towards the direction of the pull) and tied with an overhand knot – making this a bomber setup. Determine your Anchor Point. , "multi-point"). The two that are most commonly used are SERENE and ERNEST. Avoid or pad sharp edges. Strong – Built to handle expected forces. SETTING A TOP ROPE ANCHOR USING THE ERNEST SYSTEM. In any case, you're about to get all kinds of advice about how how useful or useless acronyms are. Redundant – Has a backup. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. Here is a list of some of the most commonly used abbreviations on Reddit, along with their meanings: AMA - Ask Me Anything: a popular subreddit where individuals can answer questions from other Reddit Posted by u/moreannefrank - 5 votes and 17 comments Sep 8, 2020 · I did a post on instagram asking about what everyone thought the most important attribute of anchor building was. I think you should start by reading up on ERNEST and SERENE acronyms to learn some of the "whys". The home of Climbing on reddit. e. 1. All of this adds up to a great SERENE, RENE, ERNEST, NERDSS or whatever acronym you like when debating or evaluating the merits or flaws of an anchor. It requires an extra locking carabiner to form a master point. Timely refers to the concept of setting the anchor at the right Time, such as before you run out of rope or pass a good belay stance, and setting the anchor fast, due to weather or injury concerns. Non-extending – Won’t shock the system if one point fails. A few examples include: SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or strong), Timely, (Angles) STRADS: Solid, Timely, Redundant, Angles, Distribution, Shockload They are all basically variations […] An anchor builder should always strive to build an anchor that will be loaded on-axis when the belayer or climber weights the anchor. ) Anchors can be tied around a single object ("single-point") or by joining multiple anchors (i. Here's what they stand for: Both of these acronyms have the basic components that make a safe, reliable climbing anchor. A common alternative is SERENE - (S)trong, (E)qualised, (R)edundant, (E)fficient and have (N)o- (E)xtension. . rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Common issues that WILL get you banned are any comments on personal appearance, any discussion about pricing of any kind, aftercare/medical advice or questions, and trolling. In rock-climbing, a pretty common acronym for teaching anchors is ERNEST - anchor systems must be (E)qualised, (R)edundant, have (N)o- (E)xtension, (S)trong, and (T)imely. I used the acronyms EARNEST and SERENE for some examples. Nov 18, 2013 · At the bottom, clipped into the power-point (sometimes called the master-point) are two opposite and opposed locking carabiners. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. The next page shows examples of several types of anchors. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. ehugxelrcutfdtgkhjxytosveposysobdjuassmiofdbapauay