Dyneema vs nylon slings reddit Not just because he dealt with big South African fish but because it is easier on the hands. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. So Dyneema is really strong in a static setting, but can break a lot easier than nylon when loaded dynamically. The Dangers of Short Static Falls - Why nylon slings are better than Dyneema comments Top Add a Comment bearbreeder • 11 yr. And it waterproofness is good enough for all the downpours the Sierra monsoon has thrown at me. Jun 7, 2024 · A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. DCF delivers inherent waterproofing and moisture resistance, while nylon requires Post your speculations, ideas concerns. The problem with knots in dyneema is that the dyneema is slicker than nylon, and won't reliably hold knots. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 5kN (sketchy). Dyneema does pretty much last forever, short of cutting it. The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. When you fall on a knotted sling you are flash tightening the knot, which creates a lot of friction which an melt thin dyneema. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. Alpine draws vs shoulder slings? I’m working on making my rack more alpine-friendly. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. They are all tested to the same standard and even though some people may have opinions on dyneema vs nylon it's mostly irrelevant for the vast majority of climbers/situations. This is for sport, of course (2 generally Nylon cord is the most common. Dyneema has a much lower melting temperature than nylon. They’re insanely light and compact, and even with extensions they weigh less as a set than a single ENO or Kammok nylon strap. I have a roll of dyneema arborist throw-line I use for most of my outdoor rigging. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. The nylon 6. Jan 24, 2012 · What Are Slings?What Are Slings? Slings, Known in the USA as Webbing, are one of the most versatile and useful things in your climbing rack. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. Some things to consider Lighter usually means wire gate, more complex design and at the extreme end - smaller overall size (tends to be trickier to use). It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. I've used Vs with 1. Cheaper and more durable, the sheath protects the core which hold most of the strength. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. The 8. Also to note, aren't the slings covered with a nylon sheath? Which would help prevent a problem with friction. BD slings are probably most popular just cause BD is ubiquitous. 3mm. I find it odd that none of these top But, tying a knot in your standard dyneema sling is acceptable so long as you know the limitations and don't put yourself in a situation where you could potentially be putting a ton of force on the sling (which you should be doing regardless of using a dyneema or nylon, knotted or unknotted sling). Cheaper as well. Dyneema can't be dyed, so slings are always white, often with a coloured thread running through them too – this is a nylon ‘filler’ that is used to help hold the sling together. So we tested it. A flat dyneema or nylon piece of webbing in a loop sewn closed is usually referred to as a sling. Sep 1, 2023 · In the battle between nylon and Dyneema for the best material for climbing slings, it might seem that nylon is slowly losing the battle. Here’s how it works. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. Unless you are racking up every piece of gear you own for a big wall, the extra weight/bulk is probably not a problem. 8mm Dyneema (the Help me decide, both have their merits. However, you don't really need to tie a knot in it, just a few wraps around a post, bring the two bights together and throw a biner in them. 6 g when moving to 5/8″ nylon slings. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. Dyneema is super waterproof and seems more durable, but is loud, doesn’t stretch, and flaps in the wind more (makes it hard to sleep) Silnylon is water resistant, not proof, and seems less durable. Something to consider. It has some of the best properties of both including a very high static strength and decent abrasion resistance. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. my whoopie slings on my hammock for almost 7 years now and i go out fairly frequently. I'm sure someone is going to end up posting that video from DMM about breaking slings. By the way, my ILE Default Blackout Patchwork is probably constructed from more different fabrics than any other pack: VX21 X-Pac, X50 X-Pac, 500D Cordura / 275 Dyneema Ripstop, and 1050D Ballistic Nylon. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. This has a 200 denier woven nylon face fabric which will last longer than even the heavy weight hybrid DCF with polyester 150d face fabric. An ultra 200 fabric tent? (Ultra is 70 PE/30 poly with laminate, being used for new backpacks) Virgin uhmwpe fleece, inherently waterproof, would pair well with silpoly poncho or by itself, great for socks Is there a way to overcome the slippery less of virgin material in fine denier to make rain jackets, down Jacket shells, tents etc Cheap uhmwpe sling The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. What are you using it for? Paracord is a good general purpose cord but for any given application, there are better options. For repeated use, probably not the best material to slide on the rope, but it will work to get you out of a jam if you need to use your slings. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. Titan 5mm (dyneema): 13. For a recreational user like yourself, consider replacing dyneema slings every three years, and nylon slings every five. i can't find literature that says only nylon specifically, but they do specify dyneema on the contact sling, so i assume this has no dyneema in it. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. 6 barely stretches at night. I have a 50m spool of black speckled 1. What materials have you used first hand that didn't hold up and you wouldn't buy again? edit: I appreciate all the responses folks but I mean more along the lines of actual failure, like by ripping or abrasion or stitchholding What is Dyneema? The world’s strongest fiber is reshaping outdoor gear — lighter, stronger, and more durable than nylon. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. Or so said Hugh Banner when I talked to him about it Thats most likely why BD have not gone to dyneema slings on their camalots - so that they don't need to be reslung as often. The number of lines in the middle indicate the strength. Add in that spectra and dyneema are more expensive, and the only advantage of these materials is that they are smaller and lighter weight than nylon pieces. I'd considered getting the Dyneema version but it feels too thick for sling use (unlike the Aer Tech Sling 2 that I love), packing that much weight would be murder on my back without the balanced suspension of a backpack/ Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more convenient. Tech cord 5mm (aramid fiber): 22kN!!! For comparison: Nylon 7mm: ~13kN Nylon 8mm: ~17kN Strength of nylon does go up significantly with a bit of extra bulk/weight. Depending on how you're setting up your rappel, if the knot slips, you'll either- Shockload your system when your belay/rappel device relocates to the terminal end of the sling, which could be extraordinarily bad, especially if you're right at the start of a rappel with little rope in Zylon also is apparently newer but degrades in UV. They are made from either Dyneema or Nylon. It doesn't really matter in the end, you could go with any certified brand. Couple thousand lbs in a few mm, stupid light. If they happened to slip and fall at that point, bad things could happen. It was getting too complicated. It is true that the dynamic element will absorb a large part of the force, but considering how a knotted dyneema fail at low force, I wonder if a cord or nylon sling would be a better option for belay station, and keep dyneema for extending pros Be aware that the strength does vary depending on the type of material: Nylon 5mm: Only about 5. Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, whether nylon or spectra. IMO dcf is the lamest product containing uhmwpe. ) Sep 4, 2010 · The crux of the matter is UV damage - dyneema/spectra material ages faster than nylon due to sunlight. Had something like 8 nylon runners for alpine draws and they were simply too bulky and heavy. I reached out to Dan's team and I received the following response talking about the two fabric floor options. 2 days ago · Notable Insights Dyneema offers twice the strength-to-weight ratio of nylon, enabling lighter pack construction without sacrificing durability or load capacity. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. But is quiet, stretchy, and packs much easier. Didn't want to overcomplicate things. HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. I'd love to simply compare datasheets, but it's hard to find straight info for slings about weight per unit length, safety factor, etc. Its that the DMM video was in specific circumstances with dynamic falls onto the slings with no rope in the system, which IS dangerous. Learn how to choose the type you need. If we limit ourselves to Dyneema, it's common to see web and round sling products, example, and it's common to see ropes as well, example. Thats why Dyneema has little bits of coloured plastic in them too - they're nylon to help improve the wear life of the sling. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Yeah, I generally just use slings because it works with either swinging leads or blocks. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. dyneema: lighter, louder, less durable, low heat resistance. Liftex Extreema® Dyneema® High Performance roundslings are the strongest, lightest high-performance roundslings in the world. Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. Easy to understand. There's also the issue of knot creep because dyneema is so slippery. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dyneema is that nylon is a lot more dynamic. Steel As mentioned earlier, Dyneema is up to 15 times stronger than steel on a weight-for-weight basis. Straightforward. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. I think anecdotal evidence would say similar. Have just swapped out some old nylon alpine draws for dynex ones to cut bulk, but I’m still weighing in heavier than I’d like. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video (DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. *Weight data was pulled in March 2016, and included widths and weights for 90 different single slings from 21 different brands with single slings between 50 cm and 80 cm. But people walked away with the wrong conclusion, that you shouldn't knot dyneema slings I remember looking into a ton of options for a PAS and just kindastopped. Let's talk about the other end of the spectrum, how about the least durable. I get it. Reddit outpost of the much more active Durston Gearheads group on Facebook; for owners and fans of ultralight Durston Gear products like the X-Mid tents, Kakwa backpacks, and Z-Flick adjustable-length tent poles. Dyneema all the way. 6 g weight jump moving from 7/16″ Dyneema slings to 1/2″ hybrid slings and another big jump of +117. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. When you're gripped and trying to place gear fast, fumbling around with a fat sling is the last thing you want to be doing. You have to tie a knot in it to make a loop. Oct 29, 2007 · Yes, dyneema/spectra melts at a lower temp, but just take it easy while using it. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the i think it's a nylon sling, not dyneema. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. However, nylon has a few notable advantages. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. You can buy nylon slings by the meter, which are sewn as sewn slings or quickdraw slings. The second rope is introduced into the system the rope is acting as the dynamic decelerator on a much longer timescale compared to either the dyneema or nylon sling, so both are essentially treated as static in those cases. Only thing to keep in mind with nylon vs. They are rated normally at 22kn which is Hummingbird Hammocks’ dyneema webbing / spectra whoopie slings combo. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I like Mammut Contact slings for dyneema. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. Jun 24, 2024 · How Does Dyneema Compare to Other Materials? Dyneema vs. My conclusion is that in the real world I'd say that if you use thin dyneema slings the chance of cross loading is very slim. For example, imagine a new climber cleaning some sport anchors with a pair of slings and lockers. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. I know that dyneema slings in climbing do degrade in the sun, and finding one at an anchor means you need to test it to make sure it doesn't turn to dust if you weight it. Dyneema Composite Fabric Dyneema Composite Fabric, or DCF, is the new kid on the block when it comes to tent fabrics. It's stronger, lighter, doesn't retain water, doesn't stretch and is waterproof but it is pretty expensive, but their tents are already expensive and people are willing to pay the price. The most obvious is the fact that it is far more affordable than Dyneema, which is one of many reasons why the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is an ideal choice for budget-conscious climbers. I personally use the thicker nylon webbing rather than the Dyneema slings because of these issues. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. For something more burly I have a bunch of Titan slings those are blended spectra/nylon and feel beefier. That sling is a composite construction of dyneema and nylon. Specifically the nylon VS Dyneema flooring of the Durston xmid pro 2+. Dyneema Slings vs Nylon Slings Dyneema Slings, sometimes called Spectra slings, are made from Polyethylene. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as this is not normal dyneema. Make all kinds of pre-made gadgets out of it from prusik loops, soft biners, adjustable loops, all kinds of fantastic stuff and they take up almost no room/weight. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. Has anyone ever heard of a situation where prussiking with slings has melted them? Is this a real threat, and is it necessary to throw a sling away once it's been used as a prussik? I've been told that the friction between the sling and the rope is high enough to raise the temperature enough to melt nylon and dyneema slings. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. This sling retails Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Some people use 7mm cordelettes (10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings (22kn), and some people use the rope. Mar 26, 2024 · Nylon, as I have already written several posts about, is an amide polymer, which means it’s a long chain of monomers that can be formed into countless unique chemical structures. . 5 feet of 1 inch webbing, and three feet of length on the whoopies. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. My one gripe is that I have experienced some splash onto the foot end of my sleeping bag during the heaviest rain Mar 2, 2016 · This table shows the +147. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. My gf put some earring in my rofmia sideattachments pouch and it poked a small hole in the material, easily. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. The most important difference between nylon and Dyneema is that Dyneema is much lighter than nylon for the same strength. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema NYLON Pros cheaper colorful stretchier (more dynamic during falls = less impact) easier to untie [weighted Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. I highly recommend dyneema over nylon though because nylon gets really bulky when you have a lot of them. ! Not to mention threads. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. The unsheathed stuff is stronger per unit weight. For ultralight stuff, you probably want amsteel, dyneema, or spectra line. People like the Mammut slings a lot as well. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, prusik/taught lines work better Ideally cord can hold knots, and dyneema is too stiff and slick to do so effectively. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. This means that a rope, cable, or fabric made from Dyneema can provide the same strength as a steel counterpart while weighing significantly less. knotted dyneema has ~50% strength reduction, which on a 22kN sling is 11kN, or still well within safety margins for some applications. Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. The smaller sizes are like strong, low-stretch string. Not quite as static as silpoly but comparable, and of course not nearly as static as dyneema. However, these tests are on static loads, and a dynamic rope changes this considerably. In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable than that of nylon's ~400F~, it's also more suceptible to physical damage from abrasion. Dyneema Climbing Slings Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide us to best practice at the crag for using such products. Nylon fiber provides better elasticity and UV resistance but is heavier and less durable under sharp edge wear. I have used my dyneema slings as a prusik to ascend in self rescue scenarios and have put it back in my rotation, but I would be hesitant to do the same with rappelling as it produces much more heat. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. Thin ones (Dyneema) For those who like to take glas bottles up the mountain Just for the record, if you played out the scenario described for dyneema with nylon instead, there is still a chance the sling would break (though less), you would probably blow any natural pro, and there's a more than good chance that it would cause internal injuries to the climber. To date, sewn runners and accessory ropes are made from the same material. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's less bulky as Yes, knots in slings/ropes reduce their strength and u/enkoopa is right, if you are taking 11 kN whips on this stuff you are doing something dangerous. ! Dyneema in general does not absorb as much force as nylon does in anchor situations. Thanks for the detailed review. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. 1 line correspond to 5 kN. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". It's often discussed around these parts what is the most durable fabric to use for bags. Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon knots, making the second video more appropriate for this thread. Jul 14, 2005 · I was wondering what folk use for reel line these days and why? Miles used quite thick Dyneema or para (parachute) cord, 2mm or 3mm I think. My gear choices are Gossamer Gear Mariposa and the One Tent Or HMG 2400 and Zpacks Duplex The latter seems Hilleberg, Fjällräven, Helsport, North Face or other expedition class tent makers don't seem to have any Dyneema fabric tents, some of them do have it in their guylines. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want I'd have said Nylon slings (Lyon makes the best caving slings) over Dyneema for abrasion resistance. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. Other than the sheer difference in bulk, why wouldn't I change? We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. The sheathed stuff is easier to tie knots with. BD 18mm nylon Is Dynex the same as Dyneema? More specifically do my BD Dynex runners suffer from the same knot weaknesses as Dyneema? Dyneema fiber offers higher tensile strength, superior abrasion resistance, and lighter weight compared to nylon fiber, making it ideal for climbing slings. 5kN. Dyneema is branded ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (uhmwpe) and can be made into many different things. Cordalette (according to Leubben, Long, and McNamara) is typically round climbing rope between 4-7mm. ago Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. Get some nylon accessory cord for your friction hitch. They are basically a loop of extremely strong tape. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Lineloc 3's require somewhere around a 2mm line and minis require about 1. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength Apr 20, 2006 · In reply to CJD: Nylon is harder wearing than Dyneema. Also tying your rope around a natural anchor mid pitch takes too much work and too much rope lenght. All you can do is keep an eye on it and if it looks like there is a tear or you get some chemical on it it will be fine for many years to come. Nylon provides superior abrasion resistance and longevity compared to DCF’s vulnerable laminated surface, especially at high-wear stress points. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? Moreover, certain knots (like the girth hitch) will have a tendency to cut through the sling when dyneema is under load (doesn't happen with nylon). While it is an interesting video and has some important How do polyester slings compare to nylon and Dyneema, and why are they never mentioned? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. The carabiners are very good at orientating themselves, and even if they get cross loaded usually they're still stronger than half the gear you'll put in the wall and should hold most ordinary falls. The benefits outweigh the risks. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. While Dyneema® has a much greater strength-weight ratio (static load) than nylon, its Feb 25, 2019 · Polyester shows significant promise for tents, but we’ll continue to predominantly use nylon until we’ve done enough testing to be confident that the advantages of poly outweigh its drawbacks. I could see a novice climber lifting themselves up (and putting slack in the system) to make it easier to take themselves off belay. stmajs xpafed vmi hul cchx jupypa vlht uzxrlr geovsvk uvrojz ibriwxc whidvyb nijmej bmdy llvuh